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Pattern v Genuine

No problems found with pattern sprockets, cables, oil seals, chains, oil filters, piston rings & seats (other than it has a fibre glass base).

While I may not be entirely complementary about pattern parts, the are an essential source of spares for any ageing vehicle...Please keep up the good work if you are a supplier.

    Pattern swinging arm bushes in nylon were a very tight fit, I had to wet & dry the outer as they seized the pivoting axle when pushed home. Use genuine Honda if possible for a first time fit or for the engineers, make your own from 1.25" phosphor bronze stock. Buying the cored type if available with an inner diameter of 0.75". The swing arm shaft is 27/32" and will require a little clearance on top of this. When finished these should outlast the OEM type by many years.

    Pattern rear light assembly is a simplified copy and becoming hard to find, some are marked Stanley on the lens but they are a copy. The genuine article has Stanley stamped on the chrome back and an internal reflector, rare because it was fitted to many 1970's Honda's.

    Pattern indicators required some tweaking to get them onto the Honda stems, otherwise very good.

    Pattern cables again requiring some fettling to fit, otherwise very good. The throttle cables have the American fittings for higher handlebars and need routing in a different manner.

    Pattern points & condensers made by Mitsubishi and Diachi are available and generally poor quality but cheap. Try to find genuine Nippon Denso or Toyo (T.E.C) as these are the only type Honda recommended. A well setup mechanical ignition is indistinguishable from the aftermarket electronic ignitions available and has never let me down.

    Pattern gasket sets Try to obtain Genuine Honda, Athena or NP if possible, higher in price but you get what you pay for. The cheap NE brand super gasket set I opted for wasn't cut very accurately and had incorrect exhaust gaskets. The genuine Honda cylinder head gasket is now p/no.12251-377-306 & improved?, but at around half the entire cost of a gasket set, not cheap.

    Pattern fork stanchions Parts such as this I use Honda original. I've heard stories of pattern parts snapping just hitting a kerbstone! Can you trust that they used the correct grade of steel in their manufacture? Why not have the originals replated, about the same cost as new but usually a better finish.

    Pattern fork oil seals My NuVo seals lasted only 500 miles? The replacement genuine Honda seals now have a new part number 91255-413-881, are only pennies more to buy and seem to be an improved design, with two sealing rings rather than the one ... no contest when you now have oil tight stanchions. I've now covered 8,000 miles without the slightest leak.

    Pattern Oil filters Try to obtain Vesrah, Hiflo filtro HF401 (Made in Thailand) or MEIWA 15412-300-325 (Made in Japan) as these come with the 2 o-rings as standard. MEIWA 15412-300-024 is the filter ONLY.

    Pattern air filters The MEIWA type are excellent

    Pattern brake pads The EBC Kevlar pads (FA13) are the best available for this machine. One problem is the outer laquered edge fouls the caliper cylinder, with the laquer removed the clearance is perfect.

    Pattern carburettor kits by Keyster. These have had some reported problems. K&L are better if you can source them. Once again though genuine OEM is best.

Contents:
16012-377-004 Needle set, Jet
99124-076-040 Jet, Slow (#40)
99202-601-0750 Jet set, main (#75)
16016-377-004 Screw set A
16011-329-004 Valve set, float
16010-333-004 Gasket set

    Pattern stainless parts My preferred choice for once is stainless rather than Genuine Honda, it resists corrosion, looks better (especially if electropolished) and is reasonably priced.

Inox fasteners have fastener kits, including long nuts for under clocks, M7 raised head polished bolt 11mm AF for top yokes fork pinch plus choice of nuts type, dome nuts to match the original Honda specification on the dampers and raised head bolts (match the originals) for lower damper if required, the strange reflector holder/headlight fixing, castle nut for rear axle, machined stainless bar for lower engine, footrest fixings. They can even supply the correct bolts for the indicator stems 28mm with polished raised heads and a bleed nipple for the calliper.

    Rear wheel spacers I made myself from 30mm diameter bar. The one with the groove fits on the right hand side of the axle and measures approx. 33.5mm. The sprocket side measures approx. 29.5mm. Both have an internal bore of  approx. 17mm.