Brushed satin finish aluminium
First job is to strip any lacquer from the aluminium using Nitromors or similar. The next step is best achieved using a scotch-brite mop (like a giant pan scrubber) attached to a bench grinder/polisher. The finish is almost as new only requiring only a final few coats of clear lacquer (Yamaha clear top coat PNT-65000-04-00 if available). My first attempt using clear acrylic lacquer caused the aluminium to oxidize over two or three days. I believe these lacquers are water based, hence the problem. If Yamaha clear is not available, try PJ coatings clear lacquer, this has been good in the UK climate but may yellow in sunnier climes.
Never use steel brushes/wool on aluminium, this will only accelerate corrosion problems.
Honda colour matched paints
Match whenever possible to a sample.
Colours officially imported to Britain:-
F & F1 = Ruby Red (aka Milano Red Code R-81 Honda P/No.08703-R81PPAH (0.44oz bottle), Varnish Blue
F2 = Candy antares red & parakeet yellow
Gloss Black
Frame & swinging arm
Indicator mountings
Headlight shell
Satin Black
Clocks
Centre & side stands
Top yoke
Engine casings
To avoid poor paint/yellowing: First blast clean to stop contamination coming out of the metals pores. Some people prefer to use etching primer to prepare the surface before painting, I didn't bother as the casting imperfections don't really show in the final effect. For best results use Ford 'silver fox', this is a close match if you can afford 2 pack. Finish using 2 pack satin clear to complete the illusion.
I've tried PJ1 Coatings silver engine paint but this seemed to yellow, especially if coated with clear lacquer. Then Simoniz 5 wheel silver, does not yellow but has little resistance to petrol (gasoline). NOTE: Halfords wheel silver is darker and not as close a match to the original. Next I'm going to try a top coat of Halfords petrol resistant lacquer and will publish my results in Autumn 2004. Other recommended products are VHT aluminium engine enamel, claims to be heat and solvent resistant. Hammerite smooth aluminium is petrol splash proof but do either yellow?. As you can see a real minefield, good luck!
After painting, clear all threads by running a tap through. On the large M30 tappet cap threads, clean with paint stripper & a wire brush or the caps WILL seize into the rocker cover. Now thoroughly clean the casings of all traces of blasting grit using thinners, high pressure water, brushes or whatever you have available. Leave any trace of grit and you have a ruined engine!!!
Powder Coatings
For a concourse finish the first coat is usually rubbed down and a final thin top coat applied. A coating specialist used to motorcycle work is advisable, he will be able to detect any weaknesses in the frame after shot blasting and advise as necessary. Protect the coating with bandages while assembling the various components. I find it best to lift the frame onto the engine rather than vice-versa. Now with the engine bolted in fit the centre stand, suspension and wheels to lift upright (WARNING: 2 people are recommended here unless your back is 100% plus some). If the coating should get scratched first rub with 1200 grit wet & dry paper, follow with T-cut and then polish with a quality wax.